Coffee Grounds in Compost Bin, Composting, Making Compost: Gardener's Supply

Coffee Grounds in Compost Bin, Composting, Making Compost: Gardener's Supply: "Here’s a quick refresher about how to build a good compost pile by combining “green” ingredients such as coffee grounds, with “brown” ingredients such as dry leaves.

Browns & Greens
Efficient composting depends upon a well-balanced mix of ingredients, which generally fall into two categories: browns (high carbon), and greens (high nitrogen). The ideal ratio is 25:1 (brown to green) but most people find three parts brown and one part green works quite well. Remember to layer your ingredients, keep the pile moist (like a well-wrung sponge) and turn it occasionally to incorporate a fresh supply of oxygen for the microbes.

Here's a list of some common compost ingredients in each category:

Brown (3 parts)
corncobs and cornstalks
paper
pine needles
dry leaves
sawdust or wood shavings
straw
woody vegetable stalks Green (1 part)
coffee grounds
eggshells
fruit trimmings
vegetable peels and leaves
grass clippings
feathers or hair
green leaves
seaweed
fresh weeds
rotted manure
alfalfa meal"

Coffee Grounds and Composting -

Coffee Grounds and Composting -: "Many folks are interested to know if and how they can use coffee grounds in their compost. Hopefully this will help answer some of those questions. The info here is just a few of the basic points. Many of the Soil forum regulars use large amounts of coffee grounds in their composting. Any specific questions you may have can usually be answered by posting a new thread on the boards.

* First of all coffee grounds are a very good addition to your composting efforts. They would be considered a 'green' or nitrogen source. C/N ratio about 20:1.

While it is widely thought that they are acidic it has been shown that most of this acidity is removed in the brewing process. Used grounds are essentialy neutral and composting them with other materials will buffer any minor residual acidity.

One of the forum regulars with a scientific background did some controlled chemistry experiments on the acidity question and this is what he had to say:

'Roasted coffee is fairly acidic, but it appears that almost all of the acid is water soluble and is extracted during brewing. Used grounds have essentially neutral pH, although the coffee beverage produced is rather acidic.

The measured pH of used coffee grounds was 6.9, with a significant amount of buffer capacity - adding the co"

Coffee grounds for compost and fertilizer

Coffee grounds for compost and fertilizer: "Every day across America, Asia and Europe, millions of pots of coffee and tea are brewed, and the millions of pounds of wet grounds, filters and bags thrown in the trash. This is both wasteful and foolish.

Coffee by-products can be used in the garden and farm as follows:

* Sprinkle used grounds around plants before rain or watering, for a slow-release nitrogen.
* Add to compost piles to increase nitrogen balance. Coffee filters and tea bags break down rapidly during composting.
* Dilute with water for a gentle, fast-acting liquid fertilizer. Use about a half-pound can of wet grounds in a five-gallon bucket of water; let sit outdoors to achieve ambient temperature.
* Mix into soil for houseplants or new vegetable beds.
* Encircle the base of the plant with a coffee and eggshell barrier to repel pests.
* If you are into vermi-posting, feed a little bit to your worms"

How Compost Happens, Bulletin #1159

How Compost Happens, Bulletin #1159: "What can I add to my compost pile?
A: Although almost all natural, organic material will compost, you shouldn't put everything in your pile. Some wastes, such as fish scraps, bones, butter and meat, will attract pests and may smell. Other items, such as dog or cat manure, contain disease organisms that can survive the compost process and may attract other animals. Plants that are diseased or are infested with insects should not be added to your compost pile because they can cause future problems.

Some types of weeds and grasses (such as quack grass) may not be killed and can regrow. If you add weeds to the pile, be sure the pile heats up enough to kill them. Turning the pile regularly will help."

Composting: composting wood chips, grass clippings, composting wood

Composting: composting wood chips, grass clippings, composting wood: "QUESTION: Hello, I am considering clearing several acres of land which has lots of brush and small trees so I can till and plant. I have no idea what to do with all the debris. Most of it is too small and brushy for firewood and would take me years to burn anyway. I would rather not just pile it up and burn it as that seems to be a rather unfriendly thing to do to the air. Piling it up and letting it rot would take up a lot of space and take forever. I am considering chipping it with a large chipper and somehow composting it so it decomposes quicker. Is there a way to decompose wood chips more quickly, such as adding nitrogen? What is a good source of the recommended additive? Is there a better way to get rid of the debris from clearing land?
thanks!

bob

ANSWER: Hello Bob

Quite a task your are undertaking.

Yes you are on the right track, Nitrogen will help with the Decomposing of the Wood Chips and debris.

Would you consider, digging a pit and bury the chips? 3-4 Feet deep, and I can't tell you how big to make it, since I have no idea how many trees and shrubs we are talking. It is a better alternative than just piling it up and becoming unsightly.

Pile the chips about 4", then add an Organic Nitrogen, which you will need in Bulk, so you will have to price this out with a local Supplier/Nursery in your area. Then add a dusting of Organic Nitrogen, Grass Clippings etc, then add a small amount of soil that you excavated with the pit, about 1/2 to 1". Repeat this layering by adding more chips and repeating the process. If you water, spray, the layers as you go, this will help the process.


Wood is high in Carbon, so it will take quite a while for this to all Decompose, but when its all done, you will have a ready supply of Compost that you can use for whatever purpose suits your needs.


I hope this helps, but if I have missed something, please don't hesitate to follow up with another question

"

Tips & Advice - Compost with Wood Chips

Tips & Advice - Compost with Wood Chips: "




If you're wondering what to do with all of the wood chips left from using the wood chipper (shown) to cut down your tree, build a compost pile in your backyard. It's great for adding to your garden to help transplants along and to keep soil healthy. Plus, it's an environmentally smart way to turn household waste into something useful.

There are several things involved in "heating" up your compost and helping it break down faster. First of all, compost piles require several elements to make them work properly. These include moisture, oxygen and a source of nitrogen for proper bacteria action.

Build the pile by starting with a 4 to 8 inch layer of brown material (wood chips) covered by a 2 to 4 inch layer of green material and another layer of brown. Sprinkle with water and mix layers together with a spading fork. Continue building with additional layers until about 3 feet high. Turn the pile weekly with a fork and add water as necessary. The pile should be as moist as a wrung out sponge. "

Guide to Composting | Tips & Techniques

Guide to Composting | Tips & Techniques: "How to Make Compost

Start with a layer of chopped leaves, grass clippings and kitchen waste like banana peels, eggshells, old lettuce leaves, apple cores, coffee grounds, and whatever else is available. Keep adding materials until you have a six-inch layer, then cover it with three to six inches of soil, manure, or finished compost.

Alternate layers of organic matter and layers of soil or manure until the pile is about three feet tall. A pile that is three feet tall by three feet square will generate enough heat during decomposition to sterilize the compost. This makes it useful as a potting soil, topdressing for lawns, or soil-improving additive.

Your compost pile may benefit from a compost activator. Activators get the pile working, and speed the process. Alfalfa meal, barnyard manure, bonemeal, cottonseed meal, blood meal, and good rich compost from a finished pile are all good activators. Each time you add a layer to your pile, sprinkle on some activator and water well."

How to Compost.org

How to Compost.org: "From beginners to experts this web site is designed to be a hub for all composting information. No matter what your interest is, you'll find something here worth you time. Our goal is to be the best resource on the internet for composting information.

On our site you will find articles and links covering all topics about composting and organic gardening. We do not discriminate, if you have an composting article or tip please submit the information so we can post it for everyone to enjoy. If you know of a good link to your favorite composting web site or article send it to us!"

How to make compost - full instructions

How to make compost - full instructions: "How to make compost
Make your own compost

Making and using compost is the cornerstone of organic gardening.

The finished product is rich, dark, crumbly and sweet-smelling. It is made of recycled garden and kitchen waste, and can also include paper products. It is used to feed and condition the soil and in making potting mixes. Around 40 per cent of the average dustbin contents are suitable for home-composting so it helps cut down on landfill too.

Making compost is often considered to be complex but all you need to do is provide the right ingredients and let nature do the rest – however, a little know-how will help you make better compost, more efficiently."

Composting

Composting: "Composting is a process in which organic wastes are degraded by microorganisms at elevated temperatures under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions. Soils are excavated and mixed with bulking agents and organic amendments, such as wood chips and plant wastes that enhance porosity. Maintaining proper oxygen and moisture content and closely monitoring temperature helps achieve maximum degradation efficiency. Typical compost temperatures range from 54° to 65° Celsius. The increased temperatures result from heat produced by microorganisms during the degradation of the organic material in the waste. It produces a byproduct that is stable and in some circumstances results in complete degradation of the contaminant.

There are three major designs used in composting. The first design is an aerobic static pile. Compost is formed into piles and aerated with blowers or vacuum pumps. The second design uses a vessel similar to a bio-reactor. After being placed in the vessel, the compost is mechanically agitated and aerated. The third method is called windrow composting.

Windrow composting is usually considered the most cost-effective composting alternative. After contaminated soil is excavated, large rocks and debris are removed. Amendments such as straw, alfalfa, manure and agricultural wastes are then added. The material is layered into long piles, known as windrows. The windrow is thoroughly mixed by turning with a commercia"

Windrow composting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Windrow composting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: "In agriculture, windrow composting is the production of compost by piling organic matter or biodegradable waste, like animal manure and crop residues, in long rows (windrows). This method is suited to producing large volumes of compost. These piles are generally turned to improve porosity and oxygen content, mix in or remove moisture, and redistribute cooler and hotter portions of the pile. Windrow composting is the most commonly used of farm scale composting methods. Process control parameters include the initial ratios of carbon and nitrogen rich materials, the amount of bulking agents added to assure air porosity, the pile size, moisture content, and turning frequency."

Soil and Compost

Soil and Compost: "Compost is food for the complex microbial populations living beneath our feet that in turn produce food for our crops. One way of making good compost is through the Controlled Microbial Composting (CMC) method that concentrates on maintaining aerobic conditions during composting. It is a widely used process globally for making high quality compost on farm quickly. In this respect it differs from many green waste composting operations. So why are organic and non-organic growers, at the forefront of horticulture recognising the value of investing in composting? Soil is the underlying foundation for all land-based living organisms including not only ourselves but also the plants and crops grown to generate an income. As vegetables are food for us, compost is food for soil organisms that in turn feed our vegetables. Here are some of the benefits that can be achieved through using good compost:"

Humanure Handbook: A Guide to Composting Human Manure: Joseph Jenkins: Amazon.co.uk: Books

Humanure Handbook: A Guide to Composting Human Manure: Joseph Jenkins: Amazon.co.uk: Books: "Synopsis
There are almost seven billion defecating people on planet Earth, but few who have any clue about how to constructively handle the burgeoning mountain of human crap. 'The Humanure Handbook, Third edition', will amuse you, educate you, and possibly offend you, but it will certainly pertain to you-unless, of course, your bowels never move. This new edition of The Humanure Handbook is: the tenth anniversary edition; richly illustrated; perfect for reading while sitting on the 'throne'; revised, improved, and updated; and there are 256 pages of crap."

High fibre composting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

High fibre composting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: "High-fibre composting is a system which has been developed and trialled at the Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT) in Wales with promising results so far. It consists of adding all cardboard (including packaging, toilet roll tubes, cereal boxes), newspaper, magazines, etc. to the compost pile. Such material should be distributed thoroughly throughout the heap, and well stirred through (mixed) in order to increase its surface area and improve aeration in the heap. It would be ideal for adding where there is a large proportion of nitrogenous material, e.g., grass mowings, kitchen vegetable wastes, and so on, and is thus well-suited to household-scale composting.

In the past it was not considered advisable to add coloured inks to compost due to the possibility of contamination by toxins, although CAT has stated that due to changes in manufacturing processes, this is no longer an issue.

Composting of paper products is a practice which is being actively promoted by waste recycling officers in many UK Local Authorities, and if widely adopted could go some way to alleviating some of the current problems associated with post-consumer waste disposal, e.g., pressures on land fill sites."

Compost trench - Frequently Asked Questions - topical advice

Compost trench - Frequently Asked Questions - topical advice: "I've been thinking about composting in a pit in the ground - is this feasible?

Answer ...

The method of composting that you are describing is called trench composting. In autumn, recycle your kitchen waste by putting it into a trench or pit. Dig a trench one spade wide and one spade deep (approx 30 x 30cm), fill the trench with alternating layers of kitchen waste and garden soil. When full, cover with the remaining soil and leave to settle for one to two months before sowing or planting.

This system is ideal for growing runner beans, peas, courgettes and pumpkins."

Horticultural: Trench composting saves the day

Horticultural: Trench composting saves the day: "Trench composting saves the day

As fellow composter Simon Sherlock pointed out in the comments to my previous post, it will be some time before my new worm composter can take all my kitchen waste. Add too much in the early stages and the worms won't be able to eat it before some of the stuff putrefies, making the worms unhappy, and possibly dead.

I forgot to say earlier that my solution to the excess kitchen waste problem, now that my allotment site has banned it from compost heaps, is trench composting.

I am assuming the powers that be won't object because in trench composting, the waste is buried so isn't a food source for vermin. In fact this composting method is, aside from the effort of digging a hole, the easiest job in the world: no equipment necessary, and once it's in the hole you can forget about the waste. And it's a great way to prepare an area for growing 'hungry' crops such as beans and squash."

Trench compost

Trench compost: "I like to garden, not 'to compost,' and I found TRENCH COMPOSTING to be the easiest way for us to deal with our kitchen and yard scraps to make nice (wonderful) dirt.
Compsting isn't stinky, hard, or time consuming; you shouldn't have to buy or make special bins or powders or barrels. It should be (and IS) the most natural thing on earth, so don't make it more complicated than it has to be! Read on..."

Composting Methods - Composting for the Homeowner - University of Illinois Extension

Composting Methods - Composting for the Homeowner - University of Illinois Extension: "The secret to successful composting is to select an approach and technique that suits your needs and lifestyle. Your choice will depend on a number of factors such as how much space you have available, what materials you have, how you plan to use the compost, how much time you want to spend, and how neat you want your compost pile to look. For example, if you only need a little compost, want to expend minimal effort, and have a small area to do it in, your best choice might be a commercially available bin. If you have plenty of space and want large quantities of compost quickly, you may want to build a deluxe three bin unit. If you want to compost vegetative food waste separately, you may find it easiest to directly incorporate them into the soil. This lesson will cover four methods of composting: holding units, turning units, heaps and sheet composting. Other composting alternatives such as leaving grass clippings on the lawn, mulching, and vermi-composting (worm composting) are discussed later."

Gardening : Compost / Mulch : Sheet Composting : Home & Garden Television

Gardening : Compost / Mulch : Sheet Composting : Home & Garden Television: "Two of the simplest soil-amendment practices are sheet composting and green manure, prime techniques for those of you who lack the space or the willingness to maintain a conventional compost pile.

Sheet composting is a method of spreading undecomposed organic matter over the soil and allowing it to compost where it sits, rather than piling it up, waiting several weeks or months for it to decompose, then spreading the finished compost over the soil. Add shredded leaves or grass clippings or straw on top of your growing beds to a depth of about two inches (figure A). This practice is often referred to as no-till gardening, and the beauty of it is that the soil is never disturbed. What's more, the organic matter serves as a soil amendment and a mulch, and you save a lot of time and effort. As one crop is harvested, simply add another two-inch layer of organic matter and plant again. In only a few seasons, your soil will be incredibly rich and full of biological activity."

Sheet composting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Sheet composting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: "Sheet composting is the process of composting organic matter directly onto the soil as a mulch and letting it decay there, rather than in a heap. Most commonly, this is achieved by sowing a 'green manure' crop such as mustard, alfalfa, or buckwheat, which is then hoed in, preferably just before flowering. This practice can cause temporary nitrogen depletion, but this can be reduced by employing leguminous green manure crops such as lupin, winter tares, field beans, or clover, which are able to fix their own nitrogen supply in root nodules. The nitrogen is then released as the plants decay.

Proponents of this system argue that sheet composting causes fewer nutrients to be lost through leaching than heap methods, also that fresh organic matter provides a slower release of minerals when applied than when decayed. It is also said that, in the long term, sheet composting leads to higher nitrogen levels in the soil, as much is lost by vaporisation when a traditional heap heats up."

Vermicomposting and Vermiculture: Worms, Bins and How To Get Started : TreeHugger

Vermicomposting and Vermiculture: Worms, Bins and How To Get Started : TreeHugger: "What is vermicomposting? Why use worms?
Known also as worm compost, vermicast, worm castings, worm humus or worm manure, vermicompost is similar to plain compost, except that it uses worms in addition to microbes and bacteria to turn organic waste into a nutrient-rich fertilizer. Vermicompost, or vermiculture, most often uses two species of worms: Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida) or Red Earthworms (Lumbricus rubellus) rarely found in soil and are adapted to the special conditions in rotting vegetation, compost and manure piles.

How does vermicomposting work?
It works like this: after procuring a container and setting it up (more on that in a sec), feed your worms the same organic waste you'd toss in a compost pile -- which includes just about all of your food waste, save the animal leftovers -- and let them have at it. They chew on it for awhile, and when they're all done eating, they poop (hey, everybody does it) and there you go: vermicompost."

Vermicompost,Organic Fertilizers Vermicompost,Fertilizers Vermicompost,Organic Compost Vermicompost,India

Vermicompost,Organic Fertilizers Vermicompost,Fertilizers Vermicompost,Organic Compost Vermicompost,India: "We manufacture and export a unique range of Earth Worm & Vermicompostacross the world. Our Vermicompost are used by a large number of customers to meet their varied requirements. These Vermicompost are developed by highly qualified and experienced professionals who are familiar with latest market demand. We provide Earth Worm & Vermicompost at very cost effective prices, which suit to customers’ budget.

Charles Darwin first showed the significance of earthworms as agent of soil formation and in maintaining the soil fertility and hence he was known as the “Father of Earthworm Farming”. We all know the importance of earthworms in agriculture. Earthworms play an important role in improving the soil properties physically, chemically and biologically, which are necessary for obtaining better crop yields. Earthworms contains large amount of proteins (70%) in their body, which can be used as portentous food for animals, birds and fishes & even to human beings in some countries. Few valuable amino acids, proteins & medicines are extracted from the earthworm body, which are useful for human beings."

Vermicomposting - Composting with Worms

Vermicomposting - Composting with Worms: "Many gardeners compost both yard waste and kitchen waste with compost piles, sheet composting or some other method during the growing season. Fortunately, very little yard waste is generated during winter months when cold temperatures make composting difficult. However, usable kitchen waste is constantly being generated and must be disposed of. Vermicomposting is the process of using worms and micro-organisms to turn kitchen waste into a black, earthy-smelling, nutrient-rich humus.
Get Started:

You Need 5 Basic Ingredients to Start Vermicomposting:

1. a container
2. bedding
3. water
4. worms
5. nonfatty kitchen scraps."

Vermicompost - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Vermicompost - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: "Vermicompost (also called worm compost, vermicast, worm castings, worm humus or worm manure) is the end-product of the breakdown of organic matter by some species of earthworm. Vermicompost is literally the best nutrient-rich, organic fertilizer and soil conditioner. The process of producing vermicompost is called vermicomposting.

The earthworm species (or composting worms) most often used are Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida). These species are commonly found in organic rich soils throughout Europe and North America and especially prefer the special conditions in rotting vegetation, compost and manure piles. Composting worms are available from nursery mail-order suppliers or angling (fishing) shops where they are sold as bait. Small-scale vermicomposting is well-suited to turn kitchen waste into high-quality soil, where space is limited.

Together with bacteria, earthworms are the major catalyst for decomposition in a healthy vermicomposting system, although other soil species also play a contributing role: these include insects, other worms and molds."

On-farm composting methods

On-farm composting methods: "Composting is the natural process of 'rotting' or decomposition of organic matter by microorganisms under controlled conditions. Raw organic materials such as crop residues, animal wastes, food garbage, some municipal wastes and suitable industrial wastes, enhance their suitability for application to the soil as a fertilizing resource, after having undergone composting.

Compost is a rich source of organic matter. Soil organic matter plays an important role in sustaining soil fertility, and hence in sustainable agricultural production. In addition to being a source of plant nutrient, it improves the physico-chemical and biological properties of the soil. As a result of these improvements, the soil: (i) becomes more resistant to stresses such as drought, diseases and toxicity; (ii) helps the crop in improved uptake of plant nutrients; and (iii) possesses an active nutrient cycling capacity because of vigorous microbial activity. These advantages manifest themselves in reduced cropping risks, higher yields and lower outlays on inorganic fertilizers for farmers."

Royal Horticultural Society - Gardening Advice: Home Composting

Royal Horticultural Society - Gardening Advice: Home Composting: "Good garden management generates a lot of waste plant material. Home composting is the most environmentally-friendly way of dealing with this material and produces a material that is superb as a mulch and soil improver.

Putting garden waste in the dustbin is environmentally damaging as much of the material will simply end up in landfill. Many local councils operate green waste collection schemes whereby they actually collect the green waste separately and compost it. If you take green waste to the local civic amenity site most councils will then compost it. Some councils actually give the composted material back to their community, some will sell it back and others use it in landscaping schemes. Other councils provide compost bins at a subsidised cost to encourage home composting. Unfortunately council policy varies dramatically countrywide.

Composting kitchen and garden waste will produce a free, environmentally friendly source of organic matter which can be used throughout the garden. Composting is simply a biochemical process whereby organic matter is decomposed by naturally occurring micro-organisms."

Composting

Composting: "Organic gardeners avoid using modern synthetic fertilisers, and rely primarily on organic matter to feed their plants. Fresh organic matter has to be processed or 'composted' in some form to release the plant nutrients it contains.

Even though composting depicts decay of once living materials into constituent ingredients, it is useful to think of compost as a living organism, at least whilst it is being made. It will give you an insight as to how composting is best controlled and the processing time minimised.
Aims of good compost making

The idea of composting often brings up visions of ‘muck and magic’, but the aim of good composting is, in a few months, to produce a rich soil-like material full of plant nutrients.

Well-matured compost is not unpleasant to handle, and has a soft, pleasant earthy smell."

Anaerobic Composting - CCH SOLID WASTE DISTRICT

Anaerobic Composting - CCH SOLID WASTE DISTRICT: "Most compost piles are aerobic - they utilize microbes and bacteria that 'breathe' air to decompose waste. However, it is possible to compost anaerobically - using bacteria and microbes that thrive in environments that lack oxygen. Anaerobic composting is ideal if you mulch your grass and leaves but you want to compost food wastes. When food wastes are composted in the typical aerobic pile, the food wastes must be buried in the pile to discourage animals from eating your wastes. However, if you are only composting food wastes, simply putting them in a compost pile might attract animals to your pile. This is one reason for composting these wastes anaerobically.

A simple way to make an anaerobic composter is to use several 5-gallon buckets with tight-fitting lids:

1. Cut the bottoms off the buckets, about 1/2' up from the bottom (a saber saw works well; drill a 1/4' diameter hole about 1/2' up from the bottom. Put the saber saw blade into the hole and cut around the circumference)."

Composts and Fertilisers

Composts and Fertilisers: "Producing Your Own Compost Ingredients

We have produced our own hay, goat manure and chicken manure. Goat manure is convenient due to the habit of goats defecating in the sheds they require for shelter from inclement weather. As well, they are very wasteful of hay and this becomes mixed with the dung. It is unfortunate that goats spend 95% of their intellectual abilities planning the best way to invade your garden.

We kept chickens for eggs in a shed on sawdust during the morning, allowing them free-range in the afternoons after they had finished laying. The shed was cleaned out once a year in the summer and this material was our profit margin, due to the low price for eggs and the high price of wheat at the time.

We would like to establish a paddock of lucerne, far and away the best fixer of atmospheric nitrogen, but our soil is too heavy. We plan to try cow grass, a heavy yielding red clover, one of these days. We do grow comfrey and stinging nettles, both being of inestimable value in compost and liquid manures as well as compost ingredients."

Composts and Fertilisers

Composts and Fertilisers: "Using Compost

As referred to earlier, compost can be used when the original ingredients are only just barely recognisable. Compost at this stage is far from fully humified, and the nitrogen content is still susceptible to leaching by rainfall and irrigation. Consequently, it is best used on crops that are greedy feeders, such as corn, cabbage tribe, pumpkins, lettuce and potatoes. As compost matures, it turns into a black, colloidal material in which none of the original components are recognisable. This material will last longer in the soil and is required for seed-raising mixtures.

In practice, we all use some compost before full maturity, even though we would prefer not to. The amount required depends very much on the fertility of the soil, its type and the crop. Sandy soils require heavier and more frequent additions than heavier soils. Some crops abhor fresh compost, particularly carrots which fork. Peas and beans require little if any compost in the average garden; they are usually more than happy with what's left over from the preceding crop. Onions, like carrots, peas and beans, prefer to subsist on the compost residues from a previous crop.

A reasonably fertile loam to heavy soil will need about 25mm of compost preceding a heavy feeder. This amount can be increased with benefit; there is none of the toxicity problem wi"

Composts and Fertilisers

Composts and Fertilisers: "Sheet Composting

In sheet composting, the raw ingredients are spread over the area you wish to compost. The total thickness of the material should be no more than 300 mm, or it is difficult to wet thoroughly. If it is less than about 200 mm, it is difficult to maintain at a high enough moisture level. While it eliminates double-handling of materials, it is harder to manage than aerobic composting in a heap. Decomposition is slower, as less heat is generated. Weed seeds can also be a problem. In market gardening, it is most likely to be used at the beginning, before the beds are raised."

Composts and Fertilisers

Composts and Fertilisers: "Vermicomposting

This imposing word merely means the use of manure earthworms to turn your raw materials into compost. Certain materials, such as sheepskins, are difficult to process any other way. Unlike a conventional compost heap, the materials are generally placed in a container that is vermin-proof. This is a cold-composting process, so the heat generated in a conventional heap is not available to prevent vermin from invading. It is also wise to include a method of preventing the escape of the earthworms, which they are prone to do if you are not spot-on with the provision of ideal conditions for them.

My vermicompost unit is a discarded bathtub with some mesh over the plug-hole. Earthworms require the ingredients to be somewhat wetter than in a normal compost heap, so the volume of material must be considerably smaller in cross-section to prevent the anaerobic condition worms will not tolerate. As well, careful attention to pH is required as earthworms dislike acidity intensely. Frequent additions of lime are generally required. Two materials that worms will tolerate only small amounts of are citrus peel and onion scraps.

The vermicompost unit should be placed where it will remain between 15 and 25°C. Worms will not tolerate temperature extremes. Light is another enemy of earthworms, so a lightproof cover is required.

A fully functionin"

Composts and Fertilisers

Composts and Fertilisers: "Anaerobic Composting

It will surprise many people, but the centre of an aerobic compost heap becomes anaerobic within minutes of assembly. All the oxygen is used up. However, the aerobic portion migrates toward the outside and some part of the heap is always decomposing aerobically. Anaerobic composting is decomposition of all the ingredients in a complete absence of oxygen. This leads to foul smells, so it is just as well that the elimination of oxygen requires sealing the material within a container. Anaerobic composting proceeds much slower than aerobic as the temperature rise in aerobic composting requires an oxygen supply for the thermophilic bacteria.

Having said all this, you may wonder why we are discussing anaerobic composting at all. The special purpose where you may decide to compost anaerobically is when you want the methane gas that evolves for fuel. This I have never done personally, so I do not propose to do more than indicate it as a possibility. The finished material has higher nitrogen content than aerobic compost, but it still needs processing through an aerobic compost heap to stabilise the nitrogen compounds as protein."

Composts and Fertilisers

Composts and Fertilisers: "Aerobic Composting

Aerobic composting is far and away the most popular method. It has a number of advantages, chief of which are rapidity and the development of heat sufficient to kill many weed seeds. The raw materials are placed in layers in a compost enclosure 1 - 1.5 metres square, or commercially in a windrow 1.5 - 2 metres wide and 1.5 - 2 metres high. The length is as long as is convenient. The layers should be 25 - 50 mm thick and wetted to the consistency of a well wrung-out sponge. That is, squeezing a handful tightly, one gets the impression water is about to drip from it. If it drips, the material is too wet.

A traditional recipe is one-third animal manure, one-third fibrous material such as straw and one-third wilted green material. A comprehensive description of ingredients and their relevant properties is at the end of this chapter. The heap is initially invaded by the white hyphae of the fungi responsible for breaking down cellulose to simpler carbohydrates, the fuel for the thermophilic (heat loving) bacteria that subsequently take over. The temperature in the heap then rises to as much as 65°C."

Composts and Fertilisers

Composts and Fertilisers: "Organic gardening requires a very high level of soil fertility, which equates to continual inputs of large quantities of humus. The most economic source of humus is compost made on site from raw organic materials; crop residues, sawdust, animal manures, hay, seaweed, in fact anything that was once living tissue. Composting is the controlled decomposition of the raw material and there are four main methods:

1. Aerobic composting
2. Anaerobic composting
3. Vermicompost
4. Sheet composting

All four methods require similar preconditions for success. There must be a source of cellulose (carbohydrate for energy), protein (the nitrogen source), lignin (the raw ingredient for humus formation) and water. The carbon to nitrogen ratio must be between 25:1 and 35:1. If there is insufficient nitrogen, the process will be too slow. If there is an excess, you will lose nitrogen in the form of the gas ammonia, readily detected by your nose."

Wood Chip Backyard Biology

Wood Chip Backyard Biology: "Wood Chip Carbon and Nitrogen
The micro-organisms that decompose wood chips require nitrogen in amounts greater than are available in the wood chips alone. If additional nitrogen is not mixed with the wood chips, the micro-organisms will get the nitrogen they need from the soil, competing with plant roots for the nitrogen available in the soil. This is why bark mulch works to keep weeds down.

Wood Chips in Compost Piles:
Most of the material you place in your backyard compost pile is high in nitrogen. Food waste and lawn/garden waste are the two most common ingredients of backyard compost piles, and both are high in nitrogen. Wood chips can be added to a compost pile to provide a better carbon:nitrogen ratio. Wood chips, with their rigid structure, also enhance the flow of air through the compost since they are less prone to compact. This is a good thing.

Wood Chips as a Soil Amendment:
You can use wood chips to add organic material to soil. The process will take four or more years. You will need to add nitrogen along with the wood chips to facilitate decomposition of the wood chips without depleting the available nitrogen in the soil."

The dangers of using wood Chip Mulch: Landscape and horticulture expert

The dangers of using wood Chip Mulch: Landscape and horticulture expert: "After planting, many gardeners turn to wood chip mulch to help suppress weeds and reduce water loss.

One important tip to take into account that isn't common knowledge, is if using fresh wood chips and they are fresh then the chances are your shrub will suffer severely with Nitrogen deficiency, which in turn can lead to long term stunted growth.

The bacteria that break down the wood need nitrogen for the process and if you don't balance their needs they will take it from the surrounding soil.

A good tip, dress with Growmore so the bacteria can work happily without you paying heavily for their dinner.

Of course, composting the wood chips for a while will make it safe to use. As a rule of thumb, softwood one year minimum except in cases of high sap content and two years for hardwood.

It is important too that the wood is allowed to compost with an access to humidity.

All fir chips are acidic so bear this in mind when using around your shrubs."

Worm composting - recycle household waste into organic compost

Worm composting - recycle household waste into organic compost: "Composting with worms increases soil fertility, improves the structure and drainage of soil whilst holding water and breaking up clays at the same time. This is every gardener’s secret ingredient to a healthy garden! Compost worms eat up to half their own body weight in waste – making them very efficient in producing organic compost.



Buy composting worms here



What can Dendrobaena Worms Compost?

* Anything that has lived and died
* Vegetable peelings
* Cooked vegetables
* Vacuum dust
* Pet hair
* Lawn clippings"

Compost kitchen waste with a Wormery plus worms and leaf wormeries.

Compost kitchen waste with a Wormery plus worms and leaf wormeries.: "Composting Table - There is a daunting range of wormeries, composters etc. on offer. Our easy to use summary table will help you work out which system is best for you. Composting is the best way to deal with organic waste, as it returns valuable organic matter to the soil in the form of easy to handle compost. Efficient composting is essential especially now that rubbish bins are being emptied less (often left for 2 weeks). Home composting can be broken down into 2 main areas :-

*

Kitchen waste i.e. veg peelings, left over cooked food,tea leaves, coffee grinds & stale bread, dust from your vacuum cleaner and packaging waste such as cardboard.
*

Garden waste i.e. lawn clippings, weeds, leaves, hedge trimmings etc."

gardeners corner - subject 'location of wood chips pile. was 3 earth worms, etc.'

gardeners corner - subject 'location of wood chips pile. was 3 earth worms, etc.': "Mary Ann wrote:

> ... if I could have the ground-up wood chips, and they dumped the whole
load they had, from my trees and others, including green leaves, on my tar
driveway. That's important,
> they were not resting on the soil.

We could not use all of the chips in the various piles dumped around our
property in October 2001 after we had storm-damaged trees cut down. After
one year tree roots had penetrated the (reduced) piles and it had become too
difficult to remove chips, even with a manure fork, without digging into the
roots. Poking around in those piles now, we see the same thing you did,
that the interior is fast becoming compost. We take what we can, leaving the
rest in place for the trees and other vegetation."

the

the big ties